A culinary weekend at the Brecon Beacons ended up being a very wet affair. Apart from a short venture up a promising hill - reaching a fine summit to discover zero visibility and 3 solitary sheep - we mainly managed to steam up the car.

Still, a huge consolation for the poor weather conditions was an unforgettable meal at Shaun Hill’s Walnut Tree, outside Abergavenny. It was, literally, perfect, a title I am always hesitant to give.

The starters and the mains were outstanding (the calf’s sweetbreads and pig cheeks – the highlights) but the desserts ruled. I have never had a pannacotta with better consistency and the poppy seed parfait with caramelized apricots surprised all of us by the harmony of flavours and beautifully light texture.

Worth a huge detour, all the way from London and back.