Arvon Time

I didn’t really want it to end. But all sweet things must, eventually, come to an end and so I had to say a sad goodbye to my charming group of students at the Arvon foundation in Totleigh Barton, Devon, and to the centre’s inspiring managers Claire and Olly. Oh, and also to Mr Doggles, a dog who’s much more than just a dog.

I spent a week at Totleigh giving a course in creative writing, alongside Peter Gordon.

Both Peter and I, we later sheepishly admitted to each other, arrived at the centre with serious trepidations. We hadn’t a clue how to teach food writing, or, for that matter, any other form of creative writing. I guess we both secretly trusted the other to get out of this one safely.

As a matter of fact, it wasn’t half as trying as we had imagined. Claire and Olly put us at ease in seconds, with their calm and naturally reassuring demeanours. The beauty of the place and its long and solid literary history also managed to calm our nerves. And Mr. Doggles, of course, with his canine lovability and persistent barking fevers.

But it was only after the first encounter with our students - all so obviously different from each other and having a vast variety of culinary and literary agendas, yet with tons of humour and big personalities – that we realised that all is safe.

The rest was pure fun: from the chicken auction in Hatherleigh to the eventful readings in the barn, from the one-on-one tutorials, where some brutal honesty was often called for, to writing restaurant reviews, from group cooking in the afternoons, where the standard continuously deteriorated, to fumed roars of laughter around the massive dinner table dissecting the organ of one infamous TV chef.

I guess that in the end it worked out so well because our week was about so much more than just creative writing. It was about self expression, changing direction and exposure; it was about courage to embellish, uncovering a voice and leaving safe grounds; and it was about simple human (and dog) interaction.

Leiths cooking classes - New booking system

Due to the phenomenal response to the Saturday classes we run together with Leiths School for Food and Wine, we had to come up with a new booking system with greater clarity and, hopefully, eliminating the frustration of the long waiting list.

Basically, a new list of courses will be advertised every six months. After several weeks, Leiths will open their phones for bookings over two clearly designated days. Those who don’t manage to secure a place in those two days will, unfortunately, have to wait for the next time. To start with, Leiths will restrict booking to one course per person calling.

This may seem a bit harsh but we believe this is the most effective and fairest way to ease the disappointment created by the existing system, where courses are booked out as soon as they are advertised and before many can’t even get a chance to check whether they are available or not.

Here is the system in detail:
• Leiths’ website and the Ottolenghi site will make it clear when the next menus and dates are going to be displayed.
• The new menus will be displayed for several weeks before booking starts.
• The website will give two dedicated booking dates for the next series of classes.
• You will need to make bookings by telephone to Leiths School of Food and Wine on 02087496400 between 9.00am and 4.00pm on those dates.
• You may book for yourself and one friend if you wish.
• When the places are all full, Leiths will then take a waiting list of 15 people.
• Gift vouchers for Ottolenghi courses will only be available during the 2 days of bookings.

The next Ottolenghi menus and dates will be on the Leiths website and Ottolenghi website from 20th of September 2010.

You will be able to book onto these courses if you call Leiths on 02087496400 on the 20th and 21st of October, 9am – 4pm, or until places run out.

Thank you so much for supporting Ottolenghi classes at Leiths and we are sorry such a formal arrangement has been necessary, but we hope you understand and find it easier to use.

Muffin Galore

After almost 8 years of mango and passion, blueberry crumble and carrot and apple - we are about to change our muffins. It may not sound like anything to some but for us, in our little geeky cake world, this is as momentous as any of the big revolutions in human history.

But please bear with us while we experiment a little longer and come up with suitable substitutes for those old giants... and it is probably evident from the picture that we are not taking this lightly.

Gloucestershire and Hay Festival

Apart from long walks (some sunny, some rainy), a spectacular Sunday Roast at The Potting Shed Pub in Wiltshire and lazy evenings by the fire in a charming Landmark Trust house near Tetbury, we managed to fit in a masterclass and sign many, many books.

...and to all of you (and others) who were brave enough to come and see us cooking scallops at 9am on a Bank Holiday weekend, here are the recipes (all serving 4):

Tiger prawns, scallops and clams with tomato and feta

250ml white wine
1kg clams
3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
3 tbsp olive oil, plus extra to finish
600g tinned Italian plum tomatoes, chopped
1 tsp caster sugar
2 tbsp chopped fresh oregano
1 lemon
200g tiger prawns, peeled and de-vained
200g large scallops, cleaned
120g feta, broken into chunks
3 spring onions, thinly sliced
Salt and black pepper

Place the wine in a medium saucepan and reduce to 1 quarter. Add the clams, cover immediately with a lid, and cook for about 2 minutes, shaking occasionally, until the clams open. Transfer to a fine sieve to drain, keeping the cooking juices. Remove the clams out of their shells, keeping just a few in the shells to finish the dish.
Set the oven to 220ºC.
Cook the garlic in the oil for about a minute, until golden. Carefully add the tomatoes, clam liquids, sugar, oregano and some salt and pepper. Shave off 3 lemon skin strips, add them and simmer gently until the sauce thickens well, about 20-25 minutes. Taste and add salt and pepper accordingly.
Add the prawns and scallops, stir gently and cook for just a minute or two. Fold in the shelled clams and transfer everything to an ovenproof dish. Sink feta pieces inside the sauce and sprinkle with spring onion. Top with some clams in their shells and place in the oven for 3-5 minutes, until the top colours a little and prawns and scallops are just cooked.
Remove the dish from the oven, squeeze a little lemon juice on top and finish with a drizzle of olive oil.

Yoghurt flatbread

140g wholemeal flour
1½ tsp baking powder
½ tsp salt
140g Greek yoghurt
3 tbsp chopped fresh coriander
4 tbsp clarified butter (or a mixture of melted butter and vegetable oil)

Combine all the ingredients, apart from the butter, in a bowl and use your hands to mix them together to a dry dough; add more flour if needed. Knead the dough for a minute or so, until it is smooth and uniform. Wrap it in cling film and chill for at least an hour.
When ready to make the flatbreads, divide your dough into six pieces. Roll into balls, then flatten them with a rolling pin into round discs about 2mm thick. Heat some clarified butter in a non-stick pan and fry the flatbreads, one at a time, on a medium heat for about 2 minutes on each side, or until golden brown. Add more butter as you need it and keep the flatbreads warm as they are cooked.

Burnt aubergine with tahini and pomegranate

2 large aubergines
140g tahini paste
120ml water
1½ tbsp pomegranate molasses
2 tbsp lemon juice
2 garlic cloves, crushed
30g chopped parsley
6 mini cucumbers (360g in total)
180g cherry tomatoes
Seeds from 1 large pomegranate (180g)
Olive oil to finish
Salt and black pepper

To cook the aubergines on a gas hob, which is the most effective way, start by lining the area around the hob heads with foil to protect them. Put the aubergines directly on two moderate flames and roast for 12–15 minutes, turning frequently with metal tongs, until the flesh is soft and smoky and the skin is burnt all over. Keep an eye on them the whole time so they don’t catch fire. For an electric cooker, pierce the aubergines with a sharp knife in a few places. Put them on a foil-lined tray and place directly under a hot grill for 1 hour, turning them a few times. The aubergines need to deflate completely and their skin should burn and break.
When cool enough to handle scoop out the flesh into a colander, avoiding the blackened skin. Leave to drain for at least 30 minutes.
Chop the aubergine flesh roughly and transfer to a medium mixing bowl. Add the tahini, water, pomegranate molasses, lemon juice, garlic, parsley and some salt and pepper; mix well with a whisk. Taste and adjust the seasoning, adding more garlic, lemon juice or molasses if needed. You want the salad to have a robust sour/slightly sweet flavour.
Cut the cucumbers lengthways in half and then each half lengthways in two. Cut each quarter into 1cm long pieces. Halve the tomatoes. Stir them and the cucumber into the aubergine mix.
To serve, spread over a shallow dish, scatter the pomegranate seeds on top and drizzle with oil.

Saffron rice with barberries, pistachio and mixed herbs

35g unsalted butter
350g basmati rice
550ml boiling water
1 tsp salt
¼ tsp ground white pepper
1 tsp saffron threads
40g dry barberries
2 tsp caster sugar
30g chopped dill
20g chopped chervil
10g chopped tarragon
60g slivered pistachios, lightly toasted

Melt the butter in a medium saucepan and stir in the rice, making sure the grains are well coated in butter. Add the boiling water, salt and white pepper, mix well, cover with a tight lid and leave to cook on minimum heat for 15 minutes.
Meanwhile, soak the saffron in 3 tablespoons of boiling water and set aside. Throw the barberries and sugar into a small saucepan of boiling water, remove from the heat and leave on the side.
Next, remove the rice pan from the heat and pour the saffron water over the surface of the rice. Cover the pan immediately with a tea towel and place the lid tightly over the towel. Leave for 5 minutes.
Finally, transfer the rice into a mixing bowl, fluff it up with a fork and let it cool down a bit. Drain the barberries and stir them into the rice along with the herbs and most of the pistachios, reserving some to scatter on top when serving. The rice is delicious warm or at room temperature.

Yotam and Sami at Hay Festival

It is not too late to come and watch Yotam and Sami at the Hay Festival this bank holiday weekend. Tickets are available online. On the program: Tiger prawns, scallops and clams with tomato and feta, Saffron rice with barberries, pistachio and mixed herbs and more! Entertainment guaranteed.

Day at Perch Hill

The most beautiful place for a cookery demonstration? I think I was there on Wednesday.

Sarah Ravens garden is truly outstanding and a perfect venue for a bunch of colourful old Ottolenghi recipes, plus a some new ones from Plenty: Gruyere and rosemary cake, Watercress and chickpea soup, Beetroot with preserved lemon relish and more.

I am there again on June 8th! Call to see if they have any places left: 0845 092 0283. I don't think they do, though. Sorry.

New canape menu

We've been spending the last couple of weeks re-writing and re-trying our canape menu. The new menu is full of our latest creative ideas. We are now fully ready for all manner of spring garden parties, cocktail events, fancy gatherings, or whatever comes to mind.

Cheers!

Good Food Producers Guide

Hurrah! We are in the Good Food Producers Guide 2010.

This is a fully independent guide, written by the award-winning Daily Telegraph food writer Rose Prince, listing the best places to buy food in the United Kingdom, ranging from farm shops to delis, food markets to specialist producers.

You can order your copy here.

New Zealand, Part 3

After an emotional goodbye to Maria and Tanah, we started heading south, through the centre of the north island. The breathtaking landscape made up for bits of culinary desolation, where small towns have little to offer, apart from an always descent flat white and a range of savoury pies, the Kiwi equivalent of the British sandwich.

We visited the area of Rotorua, a unique centre of geothermal activity where boiling geysers erupt through mud and streams of steamy water flow through newly created volcanic valleys. The active volcano Ruapehu was reluctant to show its snowy peak to us until the last minute, when the clouds lifted to reveal its full glory.

Closer to Wellington, in little Greytown, was the culinary highlight of our road trip from Auckland. It was our breakfast at the French Baker, where we had exquisite croissants and the most delicious Parkvale mushrooms on toasted sourdough. This was pure perfection, created by the admirable Moise Cerson, a French chef who had married a Kiwi girl and set up a wonderful bakery of top standards and a cosy and generous atmosphere.

In Wellington we met Hilary, ex-manager of Ottolenghi Notting Hill, a good friend and a true Wellingtonian (with all the local know-how). Hilary took us to lunch at the famous restaurant Logan Brown, where we had paua (local abalone) ravioli with lemon and coriander. It was superb.

In the evening we went to Zibbibo where Anthony Shone, Hilary's boyfriend and head chef, spoilt us with some of his creations. Ortiz anchovy salad with caviar, orange, fennel and radish sticks to mind.

Our one day in the windy Kiwi capital was... how to put it?... filling.

New Zealand, Part 2

We next headed to Whangarei Heads, a stunning area on the eastern coast of the northern island, about 2 hours drive from Auckland, where our friend, Maria Dallow, has a beautifully charming beach house.

Our weekend at Maria's "bach" was a total heaven. We went swimming in the stunningly clear sea, trying to catch the shoals of dolphins that make regular appearances, alas, without much success, despite Maria's Maori dolphin call.

It was also a culinary wet dream thanks to Maria's friend, Tanah Jane Dowdle, an expert in anything food and wine related, and to the constant flow of seafood supplied by Maria's generous neighbours.

From the freshest kingfish imaginable (see picture), Tanah prepared Ike Mata, a kind of ceviche originating from the Cook Islands and consisting of whatever was left of the fish that we didn't eat while Peter was filleting it, coconut milk, lime and chilli. Superb!

We were also thoroughly introduced to the local clam, Pipi, that we picked ourselves from the water bed during low tide, shucked and then ate as the most sensational spaghetti vongole Tanah made using kamut pasta.

The seafood extravaganza, always accompanied by the finest New Zealand wine or Tanah's cocktail of choice, just didn't want to end. The highly popular Kiwi delicacy of whitebait fritter was probably the pinnacle. (By the way, New Zealand whitebait is a completely different kettle of fish, excuse the pun, from what we have in the UK and absolutely fantastic!)

New Zealand, Part 1

Haven't been blogging for a while due to a long anticipated trip to New Zealand and Australia, where food, naturally, was very much the focus.

We started off in Auckland, where my friend, Peter Gordon, has Dine, an elegant restaurant serving his signature fusion food with much flare.

Peter's friends and colleagues made us feel at home in seconds after a attending a proper Kiwi barbecue, with the moistest grilled lamb, a huge selection of fantastic local wines and, finally, an alcohol ignited burst of Maori/Kiwi sing-along.

I would have stayed longer in Auckland if there wasn't so much more we wanted to see. Before leaving, though, we had the most gorgeous breakfast at Dizengoff, with the perfect flat white and poached egg.

Plenty by Yotam Ottolenghi

In May 2010 Yotam Ottolenghi published his much anticipated Plenty, a collection of recipes many of which appeared in different forms in his New Vegetarian column in the Guardian's Weekend magazine, plus plenty of new vegetarian dishes.

All the recipes are true to the Ottolenghi form: vibrant, daring and highly original, with fantastic new photography by Jonathan Lovekin. Signed copies are sold at all of our branches.

Food writing course

Alongside the seriously genius Peter Gordon, I will be tutoring in a summer course focused on food themed writing.

The course will be run by the Arvon Foundation, which offers a huge variety of courses in creative writing set in the most inspiring rural or historic locations.

The week long course, starting July 12th, will be held at Totleigh Barton in Devon. It will explore many types of food writing genres and include various assignments, including some hands-on cooking. Some serious inspiration guaranteed!

Valentines: We are not romantic...

but consider coming with your loved one for an unusual dinner at our communal table in Islington and feast on oysters, pomegranate seeds, calamari and courgette flowers. Check out the lovable menu.

Perch Hill cookery demonstration

This year I will be giving two cookery demonstrations at Sarah Raven's kitchen and garden at her Perch Hill farm in Sussex.

The gardens themselves and Sarah's inspirational project – which includes everything, really, from selling seeds to teaching gardening to writing cookbooks to teaching cookery and floristry... and so much more – are good enough reasons to come to Perch Hill. I will be demonstrating a few typical and seasonal Ottolenghi dishes, to be followed by a lavish lunch in the most beautiful setting imaginable.

The first date, April 21st, is already full I am afraid, but there are still some places available on June 8th. You can contact Perch Hill on 0845 092 0283 or book online.

Sarah herself will be giving courses on growing vegetables and flowers at the LSE, London, on the 22nd and 23rd of April. You can (and should!) book online now.

Yotam

Cookery demonstration in Ireland

We are very happy to announce a one-off whole day cookery demonstration we will be giving in July at the famous Irish cookery school in Ballymaloe, County Cork, run by Darina Allen. The place is a centre of culinary excellence and the most beautiful site.

So, for all you Londoners who have been complaining that it's absolutely impossible to get places at Leiths or Divertimenti, here's your one chance to show some real dedication... We'd love to see you there.

Sami and Yotam

Christmas 2009

Our Christmas was cold yet fun. We managed to get all the orders out on time on Christmas eve, with (hopefully) many happy customers.

Thank you to all the staff. They wroked extremly hard, even if it doesn't show in the pictures.

Happy new year!

Best kebabs in Jerusalem

I just got back from a short visit to Jerusalem, where I had probably the best kebabs ever. It was at Shahin, a tiny hole-in-the wall in the old city where my family used to eat when I was a child. All they serve are kebabs and an incredible hummous.

You go down David st., which is the main market street running from Jaffa Gate and into the centre of the old city. After about 300m on your left is the butcher's alley, and right there, just after the corner is Shahin, best kebeb place in Jerusalem and probably in the word.

P.S. The picture is from the old city but unrelated.

Spring '10 cooking classes

Despite the increase in the number of classes we offer, all our Saturday morning cookery classes for the first half of 2010 are now full.

We are sorry if this causes disappointment to some. If you want to secure places for the future please contact Leiths and have them put you on their wait list. Call or email Leiths on 020 8749 6400 or info@leiths.com. A class costs £130. Classes begin at 10am and don't require any prior experience.

January 9th, with Yotam Ottolenghi - FULL
Okra fritters with lime, cardamom and yoghurt sauce
Braised lamb meatballs with quince, pomegranate and fresh coriander
Buttered vermicelli with basmati rice
Limoncello and mascarpone trifle

February 20th, with Sami Tamimi - FULL
Green gazpacho with sourdough croutons
Baked monk fish with fennel, potato, caper and fennel seeds
Kohlrabi and fennel salad with dried cranberries, baby spinach and lemon
Baked pears in white wine and cardamom, served with crème fraiche

March 13th, with Yotam Ottolenghi - FULL
Mejadarah: basmati rice with lentils, turmeric, cumin, cinnamon and fried onion
Beetroot and plum salad
Aubergine with preserved lemon and chilli yoghurt
French beans with tarragon, sesame and garlic

April 10th, with Sami Tamimi - FULL
Courgette and feta fritters with Greek yoghurt and mint sauce
Tiger prawns and scallops with tomato and feta
Mixed herb salad with lemon and honey dressing
Buttered basmati rice with fennel seeds, coriander seeds and dill

May 8th, with Yotam Ottolenghi - FULL
Sweet potato patties with cumin and coriander
Lamb and feta kebabs in tomato and mint sauce
Saffron couscous with butter and chervil
Crunchy cucumber and red onion salad

June 12th, with Sami Tamimi - FULL
Char-grilled courgette with balsamic vinegar, basil and caprini freschi
Polenta crusted fish cakes
Fresh broad beans with paprika, coriander and preserved lemon
Bulgur and cauliflower tabouleh with red onion, pomegranate and sweet spices

Christmas group parties in Islington

Have a look at our seasonal and fantastically delicious Christmas party menu - perfect for office parties or any large group of celebrators.

Make sure you tell us well in advance. Just call Basia in Islington.

Thanksgiving and Christmas menus 2009

Have a look at our holiday menus. We offer them every year at Thanksgiving and Christmas to make life a little bit easier for our customers.

Just let us know in advance, and we can get it all ready for you for the big day!

A truffle snuffle

Mike Britton, zealous assistant manager of Ottolenghi, Belgravia, wrote this wonderfully colourful account of his recent visit to Alba, the capital of white truffle. Thank you, Mike

A truffle snuffle

As my train from Genoa chugged slowly into the beautiful hills and valleys of the Piemonte region in North West Italy, I cast my thoughts forward to the weekend, where I would be attending the famous Alba truffle festival.

My very good friends, Neil and Richie, have owned a house in this area for a year now and not only do I get wonderful company (including the lovely Helen) when I come here, I get tremendous food.

Piemonte is famous for the king of the fungi world, the rare Alba white truffle (aka Magnatum Pico).

In all honesty, I knew very little about this strange blobby fungus, aside from the fact it is either black or white and was snuffled by pigs. I had sampled both but only as oil. So with great excitement and buoyed with Italian enthusiasm I embarked on a little mission of discovery!

We set off for Alba on the Saturday morning. Neil had read of a famous truffle breakfast, ‘il ouvo con tartufo’. This was baked eggs with shaved white truffle. After several attempts we found a restaurant that could produce this for us, even though they had never heard of it!

Out came the baked eggs and the waitress delicately shaved raw white truffle over the top. A special ultra fine shaver is used. I would describe the flavour as delicate, yet quite overpowering; garlicky, oniony and much more. Combined with a light Venetian Prosecco we had made a successful start to the day.

Next up was the ‘piece de resistance’, the truffle market. To sell your wares here, one must have your products inspected for quality, size and taste and be awarded a special license.
Upon entry we were given a glass and two vouchers for a free glass of red and white wine of our choosing. The day just got better!

The smell is the first thing that hits you. It’s quite overwhelming. Apparently, the truffle gives off an aroma that contains chemicals that are similar to the sex pheromones of a male pig. This is why female pigs were traditionally used to snuffle them out. Unfortunately they were so attracted to them they often tried to eat them! Specially trained dogs (Tabui) are now used and the ‘white diamonds of the kitchen’ are spared. With prices knocking 3000 Euros a kilo I can quite understand the need for change!

Each seller or Trifulao tries to entice you to their stand by offering a sniff of their finest truffle. Not being a female pig, I resisted, leaving me hundreds of Euros heavier.

The second part of the market was given over to promoting other delicious items the region is famous for. First stop, naturally, the wine stands. My lack of Italian language skills seemed not to matter here. I just held out my free tasting glass, put on a big smile and enjoyed its new contents. A quick ‘Molto Bene’ at the end and swiftly on to the next stand. The local vineyards specialise in Dolcetto, Barbera, Nebbiolo and the renowned Barolo grape varieties.

By now with red cheeks and a slight swagger, the wine had encouraged me to buy things. I had acquired Torrone (local hazelnut nougat), some gooey double cream gorgonzola (again a regional speciality) and several bottles of Barbera to accompany our truffle pasta supper. The passion of the vendors is seriously infectious.

Outside the truffle market, in the streets of Alba, were hundreds of stalls loaded with locally farmed products. The abundance of fruit and vegetables, all slightly misshapen and vibrant in colour, screamed ‘put me on your dinner plate’. All the producers were from the local Langhe region and are proud of their traditional, organic and eco-friendly farming methods. The slow food movement (Which has its origins in Bra, a town just a few miles from Alba), is most certainly at work here. You could walk down any street in a Piemontese town and not see a branded high street food store.

So as we observed a flag-waving medieval marching band and a parade of vintage cars from a beautiful piazza in the centre of Alba, Neil, Richard, Helen and I reflected on the zeal of the Albese and their passion for all things food. We raised a glass full of bubbling Prosecco and thought how lucky we were to be somewhere so special. Salute!

Many Turkish delights

Just back from a scrumptious weekend in Istanbul, where the six of us from Ottolenghi – or, otherwise very closely associated – ate our way through heaps of burek, baklava and beyaz peynir (the famous salty white cheese).

The best food we had was in simple, unassuming street stalls or basic restaurants, where the greatness of Ottoman food is evident in its simplicity yet strict adherence to tradition. The combination of flavours of Arab, central Asian and Balkan cuisines produces the most inspiring dishes.

Here’s a few of our favourites:

Kanaat Lokantesi in Üsküdar for simple home-style cooking and the best stuffed vegetables.

The Egyptian spice market that sells much more than spices, or actually, everything and anything you never knew you needed.


Balikci Sabahattin restaurant in Sultan-Ahmed for the freshest and, literally, the most delicious fish in the world, or as Itamar calls it, the Temple of Love.

The best burek we had at Asli Borek on Buyuk Postahane Caddesi, just off the spice market.

Namli, a shop full of Turkish magic selling and serving Ottolenghiesque style salads and much more. You must buy their tahini, halva and many cheeses!

At Hamdi Et Lokantasi we had the best lamb kebabs we have ever tasted, and that’s quite something.

We also visited Muzedechanga, where we sampled some amazing modern Turkish cuisine and got lots of tips from the lovely owners, Tarik and Savas.

Cauliflowers on Radio 4

The Food Programme on BBC Radio 4 are running a short series of programmes about chefs and their key ingredients. Listen to Yotam and Sami talk about cauliflowers.

Book of the month

Take a look at this. The Ottolenghi cookbook has been voted book of the month for August in this popular American website.

Seems like the book is making some waves across the pond and it makes us very proud!

Less Meat - It Makes Sense


Photo: Keiko Oikawa

I spent my lunch hour yesterday with a huge bunch of people I didn't know. Why? Well, I was invited to a lunch in St. James's Park that kick-started a campaign by Paul McCartney and his family to encourage us to eat less meat.

I don't often do campaigns. But I think that this one just makes sense. It makes sense to eat a little less of something that is so labour intensive and contributes dramatically to the total green house gas emissions. It makes sense to think of meat as something special, less of an every-day triviality.

Especially, it makes sense because there is so much else out there!

Dinner for under a fiver

Have a look at the Guardian's recent dinner for under a fiver series, where I feature a couple of easy and economical recipes.

Sami on film

Watch Sami make our sweet and spicy beef and pork pie for channel4 online.

Food awards etc.

Have a look at the recent visit of Chicago based ABC journalist Steve Dolinsky at Ottolenghi Upper st and other London attractions, including the world's best 50 restaurants awards.

Love of food

I am normally good with criticism. I actually like it. I welcome any comment about Ottolenghi’s food, my style, the level of execution, clarity of recipes… the more the merrier.

There is only one kind of comment that really gets to me, and it is part of a growing trend that I find both annoying and silly; these are comments about the health attributes of certain dishes.

I particularly refer to a letter to the Guardian’s weekend magazine by a reader from Cardiff complaining about the amount of fat that went into a broccoli pie recipe I published a couple of weeks earlier.

This reader, as many others self-appointed guards of the nation’s welfare, don’t trust that people are smart enough to make the right decisions about their diet. He can’t imagine that someone would be responsible enough to have a small slice of the rich pie, along with a green salad, to create a perfectly healthy and delicious lunch.

I actually suspect that delicious doesn’t come into the equation at all here, that this type of criticism comes from people that don’t really like food.

I wish all this energy would instead go to the enjoyment of great food, whatever it may be.

The funniest thing

Have a look at this.

Dose

James Phillips, a Kiwi, a coffee aficionado and an ex-shift manager at Ottolenghi Islington, has just opened Dose, a lovely and personal coffee shop near the Barbican.

I went there with Basia a couple of weeks ago to wish Jimi and Marketa, also an Ottolenghi person (she is still with us, luckily!), lots of luck with their new venture and taste Jimi's incredible coffee.

Dose is the sort of place that London misses terribly but is so common in Australia and New Zealand, an independent food or drink outlet where individual entrepreneurial spirit and love of anything food related is written on the walls.

Jimi would talk to anyone who walks in about his love affair with coffee, about espresso as an artisanal craft, about embracing coffee as seriously as wine.

Mind, it is a small place and does mostly take-away.

The coffee at Dose is supplied by Square Mile Roasters, a London based company that supplies our Islington branch. Their coffee is ethically sourced, carefully roasted and delivered in reusable buckets. Their blend changes with the seasons to ensure that it is always fresh and representative of the best coffees around.

You can also get some home-made sandwiches at Dose and little sweet bites to go with the delicious coffee.


Jimi with his girlfriend Helen

Autumn '09 cooking classes

Hurry up and and sign up for our next set of hands-on cookery classes. To do this, please call or email Leiths on 020 8749 6400 or info@leiths.com. A class costs £125.

The spring classes are all full now but you should be able to find places on the following dates:

September 5th
Lamb kebabs with pine nuts, tahini sauce, warm butter and parsley
Roasted potato wedges with paprika and garlic
Tomato and cucumber salad with quinoa, lemon, coriander and spring onion
Fresh berries with orange blossom cream

October 17th
Mezze
Roasted aubergine with a sharp salsa of walnut, pomegranate and coriander
Fried sweet potato with rosemary and sage
Butterbean mash with lemon juice, garlic, spring onion and sumac
Char-grilled courgette with balsamic vinegar reduction, basil and caprini freschi
Roasted red peppers with garlic, lemon and fresh oregano

November 14th
Salsify, pecorino and watercress salad with caper vinaigrette
Whole pan-fried red mullet
Bulgur and cauliflower tabbouleh with red onion, pomegranate, celery, lemon
and sweet spices
Poached quince with star anise, blackberries and vanilla ice-cream

December 5th
Whole quail stuffed with pork, pine nuts and herbs, braised with dried apricots and tamarind
Saffron couscous with butter and chervil
Kohlrabi and white cabbage slaw with lemon zest, tarragon, dill and sesame seeds
Baked pears in white wine and cardamom, served with crème fraiche

Poem

The Easy Cakes of Ottolenghi

‘food that is closer to the source … emanating from genuine instincts’

In his salad days of skins and caves, man
gave chase. He slaughtered buck, swallowed
the heart. He knew adrenaline, hauled woman

after woman by the hair. That’s all gone.
Now there’s money and a new ache every day,
sags in unexpected places, a loss of collagen

and desire. Hunger’s always knocking
at the edges, just the tongue that’s jaded.
The waitress leans into the table:

Sorrel sir, or salsify? The soft salt melt
of sea-bream, halibut, a thrill
of salsa, quince and pomegranate.

Then dessert: the easy cakes of Ottolenghi
drip their syrups, glisten in the night, secrete
fresh tones of apple, grenadilla, rose.

Jacqueline Saphra, an award winning poet, an Ottolenghi fan and "a woman that thinks too much," according to Sami, has written this smart-and-witty poem after attending our cooking class in December. She promises to write more.

Turning Japanese

Just back from a fantastically inspiring short trip to Tokyo with Noam. We went to check if this is really the new food capital of the world. And we came back with a resounding YES.

We were totally blown away by the simple food we had at small sushi joints and local izakayas (the equivalent of a British gastro-pub, but nothing like it, really).

But what was the most impressive were the food halls in the basements of the big department stores. There was nothing to prepare us for the abundance of pastries and prepared foods, for the rivers of knowledgeable and excited shoppers, for the quality and beautiful packaging... for the foodie's heaven that these places are.

We will be back.



Tsukiji market


The view from our hotel room. Unfortunately, we could only afford one night


Plastic food


Real (?) food


Japanese sweets


Noam outside Yabu Soba, greatest soba noodle restaurant in the world, at least in our mind

Wow

Take a look at this blog. We couldn't have asked for more. Thanks Keiko

Our christmas

All the Ottolenghi's were this year, as usual, victims of Christmas madness - customer orders, last minute rush, wrapping up for the a 2 day break...

No matter how much we prepare for it, we always seem to be running frantic: ticking off orders, checking serving instructions, making more gravy (why is there never enough gravy?), running out of mince pies.

The head chefs and shop managers were, by the end of it all, a little bit like zombies in a horror film: slow , dark eyed and running round in circles. Still, they all did an incredible job.

Here's just a few images:

Ottolenghi Christmas Gifts

As always, during the festive season we have a huge range of gift options, all home-made Ottolenghi products. On top of those, you can get a meal voucher or a signed copy of our cookbook, both wrapped with a red ribbon... so there you go, a bit of promotion on the blog shouldn't harm anyone.

To create you own unique “Ottolenghi Selection” we give you a bag, tied with a ribbon and padded with red tissue (see photo below), to fill up with our goodies and give as present.

Here's just a few options:

Ottolenghi: The Cookbook, signed and wrapped copy - £25.00
Gift token or lunch/dinner voucher (you decide how much)
Mince pie - £2.00
Ottolenghi Christmas cake (made with the best fruit and lots of alcochol)
small - £14.00, medium - £22.00, large - £44.00
Machiavelli Panettone
classic - £16.00, chocolate - £17.00, marrons glacé - £18.00
Christmas shaped gingerbread biscuits - £4.20
Shortbread snow flakes - £4.50
Double chocolate and hazelnut biscotti - £3.50
Amaretti biscuits - £4.90
Spicy grissini sticks with chilli and chive - £4.80
Chocolate macaroons - £7.50
White or dark chocolate brittle - £4.80
Mini chocolate or raspberry meringues - £4.90
Elizabeth David’s tomato and pimento chutney - £4.95
Cranberry and apple relish with orange and ginger - £3.90
Seasonal jams - £3.90
Mixed spicy nuts with chilli and rosemary - £4.80
Seasonal fruit cordial (to prepare hot or cold) - £3.90

Contact any of our shops by email or phone and we'll get this ready for you in no time.

Happy Sweet Christmas!

Guardian's Christmas food supplement

Just had a first glimpse at the Christmas food supplement that Sami and I wrote for the Guardian. It looks absolutely delicious.

This exquisite 20-pager will feature our take on Christmas food, including smoked aubergine and yoghurt vol-au-vents; sumac marinated baby chicken stuffed with lamb and bulgar; sourdough, green chilli and feta stuffing; roasted pumpkin with chestnut, cinnamon and fresh bay leaves (see photo); meringue, morello cherry and rose roulade; drinks to match the food and so much more!

Out on the 6th of December.

Malaysia, Truly Asia - Part I

On a recent trip to Malaysia I made with Helen and Ling (both originally from Malaysian) I got a thorough peek into this incredibly multi-faceted cuisine.

We ate almost only on street markets and in hawker centres, where the three main cultures that make up this nation (Malay, Chinese and Indian) display their unique dishes. Being so cheap and so incredibly fresh, you end up sampling dozens of dishes. It seems that the word “grazing” was invented for this kind of experience. You sit surrounded by a multitude of mini-kitchens that constantly create mouth watering local delicacies. How can one resist?

One of my favourites was a typical fried oyster omelette, which wasn’t perfect everywhere but once in a while had just the right balance of runny and crispy, with a strong but not overbearing oyster flavour. When right, it is heavenly.


Helen and Ling, proudly posing with their banana leaf wrapped nasi lemak

Another obvious choice was nasi lemak, probably the most popular dish in Malaysia. Again, if done right this dish – comprised of coconut rice, chilli sauce (sambal), roasted peanuts and small dried anchovies – is as complex a delicacy as any you get in a Michelin starred restaurant.

Nasi lemak also inspired a vegetarian dish I published recently in the Guardian. I highly recommend it, but only if you can take the heat.

To be continued...

Spring '09 cooking classes

A new set of hands-on cooking classes, in collaboration with Leiths, has just been announced. We recommend that you rush to sign up; places are taken up in a flash.

The classes offer a great opportunity to enjoy a morning of cooking, eating, drinking and sharing of food experiences. They are taught by Ottolenghi chefs, alongside teachers from Leiths. You can come as a pair, or on your own.

The cost of a class is £120. To book please call Leiths School of Food and Wine (020 8749 6400) or book via their website.

February 21st
Char-grilled fennel salad with red onion, lemon, sumac and dill
Braised lamb meatballs with quince, coriander and pomegranate seeds
Buttered vermicelli with basmati rice
Clementine and almond cake

March 14th
Okra fritters with lime, cardamom and yoghurt sauce
Warm waxy potato and mushroom salad with herbs and truffle oil
Purple sprouting broccoli with chilli, garlic and lemon
Limoncello and mascarpone trifle

April 4th and May 9th
Beetroot, aubergine and goat’s cheese with shallot and walnut vinaigrette
Grilled chicken with red pepper, chilli, red onion, paprika and basil
Potato latkes
Mixed herb salad with lemon and honey dressing

June 6th
Char-grilled asparagus and courgette with pecorino, pistachio and purple basil
Seared tuna with salsa verde and cherry tomatoes
Herb and panko crusted globe artichoke hearts
Fresh berries with vanilla and orange blossom syrup and cream

Thanksgiving and christmas menus

Have a look at our Thanksgiving and Christmas menus.

With so many years of experience we think we now have the perfect selection of dishes.

Cake geeks

We all know computer geeks. Tom from Poke, our dedicated web designers, introduced me yesterday to some of their bread-and-butter: google analytics. This offers the ultimate pleasure to anyone with a website and loads of time to spare. You can find absolutely anything there: who visited your site, when, where are they there from (in our case, UK, USA and Australia are in the lead), how long they bothered to stay tuned, what browser they used etc. etc. etc.

Talking to Tom it dawned on me that I am also a geek, a cake geek. The amount of time I can spend waffling about cakes is unlimited; I am sure I can rival any IT buff.

And I am not alone. Once a week Sarit, Helen and I meet to do just that. In our regular pastry tastings we spend long hours analysing the minutest and most bizarre and far-fetched elements of a cake, comparing textures and flavours, scrutinizing methods, suggesting alternative components, shapes, moulds, going over recent trends, what’s a must and what’s lost its sparkle, who’s the master of brownies and what makes the ideal cupcake. And we also stuff ourselves with cakes, which is fun and (try to believe me!) an agony.

Sami’s trip to Umbria

If you’re like me and you’re into food head to Umbria; it’s a trip I do together with my partner, Jeremy, and a couple of friends every year in the summer and let me tell you, I really look forward to it every time. We stay at our friend Gianluca Piermaria’s family house in a little village called Cantalupo on the outskirts of Bevagna. The village is very simple, in contrast to the picturesque surroundings of the amazing hills of the area.

The Piermaria house is big enough to take us in without feeling cramped. Every time we are there I say “this is the kind of life I would like”. Around the house there are is a fig tree, plum, walnut and vines; also a plot where Gianluca’s mum, Iolanda, grows all the vegetables for the season (and to keep them going for the rest of the year she preserves a lot). There are plenty of chickens, rabbits and cats wandering about!

The trip started at three in the morning to catch a flight to Rome at 7am. Two hours later we land in Rome, then a two hour train journey to Foligno, and then another 25 minutes journey by car to Cantalupo. What kept us going was the knowledge that a nice lunch was waiting for us.

It was Thursday, which meant “baking bread” day for the rest of the week and while the wood oven was on, lots of other cooking goes on as well. We started with home-made white lasagne with fresh artichoke and sausage meat, followed by a succulent whole roast goose with roasted mix vegetables and the most delicious potatoes that had been swimming in fat underneath the bird, accompanied by a simple tomato, cucumber and lettuce salad from the garden. The finale was a fluffy and “light as a feather” walnut and cinnamon flan, and all that was washed down by a chilled home made white wine! Of course after such a meal nobody could go further than bed for a little nap.

It is such a pleasure to go food shopping in Umbria. Even the supermarket stocks seasonal, fresh and only local food; I can’t stop myself from buying far too much stuff to take back home. I keep telling myself not to buy too much and always end up with more than myself and Jeremy can carry - cheese, salami, balsamic, black truffles and my favourite, Acquavita D’uva Regina grappa.

Jeremy was lucky this year as it was his birthday when we were there so we celebrated twice. The first time a fabulous dinner cooked by the lovely Iolanda and Gianluca, and the second was at our friends Daniela and Craig’s house, where I made all the salads; then we set up a humble barbecue outside the house and Gianluca cooked lots of different cuts of meat.

On the menu were: freshly picked figs with aged pecorino cheese, honey, mint and balsamic; roasted round courgettes with spicy breadcrumbs, parmesan and lemon; celery salad with sultanas, capers, olives and parsley; beef chops; pork belly; 2 types of sausages; lamb cutlets; cakes, pastries and lots and lots of wine!

Like any respectable town or village in Umbria, that has its own one celebrated food item (sweet potato, artichoke, pig, wine, olive oil), on the fourth day we went to the [link http://www.prolococantalupocastelbuono.it/ snail (lumaca) festival] which takes place in Cantalupo every year at the end of August.

It’s a charity event supporting people in need and the village in general. On the menu, guess what, snails in lots of different ways.

Lastly, I must mention Iolanda’s wonderful fritters. We tried them last year and we couldn’t keep our hands off them. This year I promised myself to get the recipe and see how she makes them, which she kindly let me do. Here it is.

Our mistake

Big apologies!!!
After receiving comments from a few of you we realised there is a mistake in the sweet potato gratin recipe, page 68 in the Ottolenghi cookbook.
There should only be 2 teaspoons of malden sea salt in the recipe, and not tablespoons as stated.

South of France

Just back from an enchanting weekend in the south of France. Karl and I stayed with our friends, Ossi and Paul Burger, in the house they rent every summer at the village of La Garde Freinet, 25 minutes up the hill from Saint Tropez.

Ossi, an extremely capable yet unassuming cook, had for us a majestic meal as soon as we came out from our first run of the pool. Paul got the line caught Loup de Mer at the tiny fish market in Saint Tropez (see above) and Ossi served it in a light broth, made with tomato, fennel, saffron and Pernod. How appropriate!

Cheese - Chèvre frais, Reblochon and Beaufort – Paul got next door to the fish market, at a hole-in-the wall shop selling a huge array of French cheese and run by the entertaining Carmen and Dominique (photo above).

The wine was from Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Paul and Ossi went to the famous estate Vieux Telegraph hoping to come back with cases of the famous wines. Instead, they managed to buy a case of wonderful Gigondas 2003, Domain Les Pallières.

There was more, but at some point you just sink into blissful unconsciousness.

The next day we were at the famous beach club 55 in Saint Tropez, where we saw some (literally) unreal bodies descending from yachts for a bite at this 50 year old establishment.

Dinner was at a fantastically hidden-away little restaurant in the village of Cogolin, where Anne and Philippe Audibert have been running and admirable two-man-show for years. The menu at Grain de Sel is minimal, made out of what Philippe buys at the local market and nothing else and is typically Provencal/North-Italian. The highlights were veal confit with roasted vegetable, risotto with wild sea bass and lemon and small yet full of flavour strawberries drizzled with vanilla infused olive oil. Wow!

More images from cookbook - set 1

We have just received all the hi-res photos taken while working on the cookbook. This is a treasure of striking images by the highly gifted Richard Learoyd.

Richard was generous enough to give us all the images, including many that didn't make it to the book.

Over the next few months we will be publishing here a trickle of photographs, with the relevant pages in the book. This is meant to encourage those of you who haven't got the book yet to rush out and buy it. The others we encourage to try more and more recipes.

Pan-fried sea bass on pita with labneh, tomato and preserved lemon - page 144

Sweet broccolini with tofu, sesame and coriander - page 39

Weekend in Wales

A culinary weekend at the Brecon Beacons ended up being a very wet affair. Apart from a short venture up a promising hill - reaching a fine summit to discover zero visibility and 3 solitary sheep - we mainly managed to steam up the car.

Still, a huge consolation for the poor weather conditions was an unforgettable meal at Shaun Hill’s Walnut Tree, outside Abergavenny. It was, literally, perfect, a title I am always hesitant to give.

The starters and the mains were outstanding (the calf’s sweetbreads and pig cheeks – the highlights) but the desserts ruled. I have never had a pannacotta with better consistency and the poppy seed parfait with caramelized apricots surprised all of us by the harmony of flavours and beautifully light texture.

Worth a huge detour, all the way from London and back.

Celebrating the cookbook with la fromagerie

Come and celebrate with us the publication of our Cookbook in a relaxed and informal style dinner.

On Thursday, 24th July 08, La Fromagerie will be hosting a tasting event with Sami Tamimi & Yotam Ottolenghi.

On arrival guests will enjoy Lychee Martinis & Saffron Scented Prosecco, before being introduced to a menu of vibrant of dishes. This will include roast chicken with saffron, honey and hazelnuts, cauliflower and cumin fritters, marinated aubergine with tahini and oregano, cous-cous and mograbiah with oven-dried tomatoes and seared tuna with pistachio crust and papaya salsa.

All dishes will be enjoyed along side well chosen wines.

Tickets are £70.00pp including all wines.

La Fromagerie, 2 – 6 Moxon Street, W1 Time: 7.30pm

For further information please telephone La Fromagerie: 020 79350341

Or download a booking form

Friday night dinners

Last night we resumed our tradition, where Sami and Yotam, together with partners, gather for a tasting of a new dish, soon to be turned into a recipe. Sami makes the food, the rest of us taste and give a verdict.

We did it every Friday for many months, whilst working on the cookbook. After a long-winded discussion of inherent virtues, textures and subtle aromas, we'd come out with a final decision: yay or ney.

This recent one was definitely a yay. Fried and then baked baby aubergines, served warm with a sweet spice tomato sauce and, you'd never guess, thick Greek yoghurt.

Soon to appear on an Ottolenghi menu!

Book launch

This is such an exciting time for us - Sami and Yotam. We are barraged by compliments and good wishes about the book that we just continuously smirk and blush.

Sales seem to be great (constantly refreshing Amazon's bestsellers page) but what is more important are the reactions we get from customers and readers.

They all seem to like it - a lot. "I tried 7 recipes this week and they were all incredibly delicious," a customer in Islington told us the other day. She is taking the book to Tuscany with her to give to a friend, an accomplished Italian chef.

And there is much more. Check out these 2 reviews (we couldn't have written better ourselves):

Amazon.co.uk

101cookbooks

Incredible!

Autumn 08 cooking classes

We have now finalized our plans for the next set of Saturday morning cookery classes, done in collaboration with Leiths School of Food and Wine.

The classes tend to fill up quickly so sign up now!

Just to remind you, the days begin with registration at 9.30 and start promptly at 10.00 with a discussion of the skills and recipes to be covered. Students work in pairs and then sit down and enjoy the food they have made with a glass of wine. Some people come with a friend, but most come alone and enjoy the friendly atmosphere. The classes finish at approximately 2.00.

September 13th

Gazpacho soup with Yemenite chilli paste
Baked monk fish with fennel, potato, caper and fennel seeds
Braised broccolini with chilli, garlic, sesame oil and lime

October 18th

Polenta crusted fish cakes with spicy tomato and basil sauce
Aubergine with preserved lemon and chilli yoghurt
Wild rice and quinoa salad with dried blueberry, walnut, lemon and herbs

November 15th

Courgette and feta fritters with Greek yoghurt and mint sauce
Bulgar and aubergine pilaf with onion and sweet spice
French bean salad with fennel, roast cherry tomato and basil oil

December 6th

Braised lamb meatballs with quince, pomegranate and fresh coriander
Buttered basmati rice with fennel seeds, coriander seeds and dill
Slaw of courgette, fennel and red cabbage with dried cranberries

The cost of one class is £120. To book please call Leiths School of Food and Wine (020 8749 6400) or book via the website

The cookbook

It took us, Yotam and Sami, a whole year, and many hours of testing and tasting to put together our first collection of recipes. The Cookbook, finally out on the 1st of May 2008, is published by Ebury press, cover price £25. You can order it from Amazon, Play, Waterstone’s, or the publisher’s own rBbooks online shop.

The Cookbook is our first attempt at “summing up” Ottolenghi food for the home cook. The 140 recipes cover everything we do: our prominent salads and roast vegetable dishes, cold meat and fish, substantial main courses from our dinner menu in Islington, some of our wholesome breads and savoury pastries, and a good mixture of the sweets that distinctively adorn Ottolenghi’s windows. We encourage you to use this open window into our world.

Vietnam mini-adventure

The pollution almost did me in. I am back from a short visit to Vietnam, where I took in some of the filthiest air on the planet with some of the most incredibly delicious food.
First, 24 hours in Hong Kong. Despite jetlag, I dragged my lazy bones to the Jordan neighbourhood in Kowloon. Sat on low a stool at Aberdeen restaurant, somewhere around Temple Street, and downed truly great scallops, topped with vermicelli, bread crumbs, coriander and garlic (so much of it, I should take some Ottolenghi customers here to show them what garlicky really means). Also on the menu, and I quote precisely: Fried affluent prawn with spiced salt; Big shell in boiled water till cooked; Deep fried stomach fish; Pigs intestine and goose intestine.
Next day I managed to squeeze dim-sum and jellied pig’s ears, incredibly tasty, at King’s Lodge, 67-71 Chatham Road South, Kowloon.
Hanoi greeted me with a thick veil of misty smog that never lifted during my 5 days there and eventually brought me down with a violent flu. Prior to this unfortunate eventuality, Alex (my travel companion and Ottolenghi’s designer) and I managed to find the best restaurant in town on the first day. All other paled in comparison so we just kept on coming. We must have eaten at Quan An Ngon (18 Phan Boi Chau, Quan Hoan Kiem; Tel: (04) 942 8162/3) five times, turning into regular fixtures. It is not quite a restaurant but more of a cluster of stalls, serving what they do best in Hanoi, street food. The freshness of ingredients and the light touch when bringing it all together are the signature features. Fish sauce, nuoc mam, the common denominator. Everything was good, but some wonderful highlights were: Banh Xeo (Vietnamese pancake or crepe, light as a feather); Goi Bo Bop Thau (beef salad); and Mien Xao Luon (stir-fries cassava noodles with eels).
Check out this Hanoi food blog: www.stickyrice.typepad.com

Cooking classes

Over the past few years we have been nurturing a close collaboration with Leiths school of food and wine, now based in Chiswick. As well as guest chef classes given by Yotam Ottolenghi to the students at the school, we take on students (and sometimes also teachers) for work experience, some of which end up working with us permanently.

As part of this close collaboration, we also offer monthly hands-on cookery classes at Leiths. These sessions, held on Saturday mornings, offer a brilliant opportunity for our customers and fans to come and get a first-hand Ottolenghi cooking experience with our chefs and the highly qualified teachers of Leiths. The Saturday workshops start at 9.30. They are fun and are conducted in a very relaxed manner. You don’t need to know much about cooking and can come on your own or with a friend or a partner.

The cooking is done in couples and at the end, around 1pm, tables are laid for everybody to enjoy their creations with a glass of wine.

The cost of one class is £115. To book please call Leiths School of Food and Wine (020 7937 3366) or book via their website www.leiths.com

Next cookery classes:

Moroccan Flavours, February 2nd 2008 – sold out

Sweet potato patties with cumin and coriander
Crunchy cucumber and red onion salad
Chicken tagine with preserved lemon and olives, served with saffron couscous

Vegetarian, March 8th – sold out

Beetroot, carrot and red cabbage slaw with cranberries and pecans
Baked polenta with wild mushrooms, tallegio and thyme
French beans with tarragon, sesame and garlic

Brunch, April 12th – sold out

Own granola with yoghurt and fresh fruit
Warm and spicy corn muffins
Shakshuka: Tunisian eggs with tomatoes, peppers, saffron and coriander

Early Summer Event, June 14th - sold out

Chilled pea and sour cream soup with basil and chive
Pan-fried sea bass with green and red tomato salsa
Bulgar salad with caramelized onion, feta and tarragon

The festive time

This is the period that we all dread. The “festive” time has sucked out every little bit of festive energy, many of our customers are still away on their festive holidays and there is this cold gloom in the air, the lethargic calm after the storm. So what better to do than think about the future, de-place one self.

So we got together – the Ottolenghi creative team: Sarit, Helen, Sami and Yotam – and focused our gaze on the future. In the current state of mind, the only way to do it is systematically. I mean, go over our product list and revaluate. I can reveal a few secrets: the cheesecake tart cranberry topping is changing, stopping the pumpkin muffin (seasonal consideration)… and the most exciting bit, Helen has come up with an incredible clementine cake (just need the right moulds now) – a sure hit. Stay tuned!

Oak

Last night I tried to get into the new Rowley Leigh restaurant in Bayswater Le Café des Anglais. Cornelia and I didn’t book a table but tested our luck anyhow. Tough luck. The swanky new venue in Whitley’s shopping centre was fully booked and even Cornelia’s strong sense of persuasion wouldn’t persuade Hannah at reception to find us a corner. We will try again, but not for an intimate one-on-one. The huge dining space is nothing but intimate.

Instead, we went to the second floor of the Oak on Westbourne Park Road, near Ledbury Road, where there was plenty of intimacy to be had. England was losing to Croatia at the same time so there was enough space in an elegant and still terribly cool room. The tapas were delicious. We had some beef carpaccio with truffle oil and a most luscious consistency and a vegetable antipasti with Buratta. What is buratta? Well, it’s sort of the new mozzarella. Not quite new (it has been discovered in the states quite a few years ago and invented in Italy in the 1920’s) but definitely the new rage in the London restaurant scene. It is a soft cheese made from buffalo milk. It comes from Puglia and is best eaten within 2 days of its production. It is so creamy you only need a small knife-scrape of it. The taste is heavenly and a small online search shows you can get it from Manicomio restaurant/deli on the King’s Road in Chelsea.

Thanksgiving

It is Thanksgiving today and we are all sharing a small sense of panic. Nothing major, since everybody was working very late last night to get every possible bit of preparation done (Ged and his team in Kensington have the most orders; he was drowning in gravy when I saw him at 8pm yesterday). But still, we have to roast all those turkeys and get the stuffings ready in the plastic bubbles, all nicely labelled for our beloved Americans customers to come and pick up.

And Americans, we know very well now, unlike their fellow Brits, will not keep quiet if something goes wrong with their orders, be it a tired herb to garnish their chowder or a substantial crack in their pumpkin pie. So Maria and Karl, devoted managers of Ledbury Road and Holland street, are like diligent proof-readers, going a million times over the most microscopic of details. We must get it right.
I am feeling confident about the menu this year. We made it simpler than in previous years after realizing that Thanksgiving and Christmas are no times for originality. That’s how it is and we better get used to it, even if every year, around September, all of us (Sami, Helen, Sarit and me) get together to re-invent the wheel. With our over-enthusiastic chefiness, we don’t grasp a most trivial truth: that tradition is tradition, that people get together for Holiday meals not to be surprised and astounded but for exactly the opposite reason, to be soothed and reminded of past experiences, for a bit of childhood comfort.

So I am eagerly waiting to see how our pumpkin pie, made with maple syrup and as orthodoxly as possible, will fare with our know-what-they-want Americans.