Read about our new venture

Leiths classes, autumn 2011

We are delighted to announce our next set of classes at Leiths, starting September 2011.

As advertised earlier, there will be a short window of opportunities to sign in to the classes, due to their great popularity. Leiths' booking line (020 87496400) will be open on the 8th March only, from 9am onwards, until places run out. We advice you to be persistent and keep on trying even if the line is busy. Once connected, you'll be able to book a class for up to 2 people.

We hope you all have success in booking and looking forward to teaching you soon!

September 10th, with Sami Tamimi
Sweet potato patties with cumin and coriander
Turkish beef and leek meatballs
Basmati and wild rice with chickpeas, currants and herbs
Roasted beetroot and plum salad
Fresh berries with orange blossom syrup and cream

October 15th, with Yotam Ottolenghi
Warm haloumi and chicory with pomegranate and walnut
Aubergine with herbs
Baked okra with tomato and preserved lemon
Quinoa and fennel salad
Poached quince with star anise, blackberries and vanilla ice-cream

November 19th, with Sami Tamimi
Padron pepper fritters
Braised lamb meatballs with yoghurt and herbs
Saffron couscous with butter and chervil
Green bean salad with mustard seeds and tarragon
Fig and grappa trifle

December 10th, with Yotam Ottolenghi
Char-grilled squash with labneh and pickled walnut salsa
Whole quail stuffed with pork, pine nuts and herbs, braised in tamarind
Freekeh pilaf
Mixed herb salad with lemon and honey dressing
Baked pears in white wine and cardamom, served with crème fraiche

New Year in Thailand

Noam, Garry, Karl and Yotam - just got back from a short break in Thailand, where food (surprise, surprise) was the star.

Christmas 2010

It's all over now. Orders are out, kitchens are clean, tired chefs and shop assistants are on their way home, and we all get a few days to rest. Thank you - to ALL Ottolenghi staff - for a smooth and fun Christmas!

Silly Season

Please please excuse what may seem like a shameless, brazen and cynical promotional attempt, which we normally don’t do, but there is just so much at the moment that we just can’t wait for everybody to slowly find out.

First, we have our holiday menus, where we offer you the opportunity to work a little less at Thanksgiving and Christmas. Basically, you can order from Ottolenghi any part of your holiday meal – starters, mains, sides, nibbles, sweets, condiments – or the complete, whole meal . We supply everything packed with clear heating and serving instructions.

Then, there’s a range of Iranian products that, as far as we know, we are the only ones in London to sell. They are quite magical.

Pashmak (Persian Fairy Floss), nougat and toffee brittle, are all made in Iran. Pashmak is the original type of candy floss / cotton candy, just like the ones kids get in fairs but of top quality. The version we have is hand-spun, and made from sesame and sugar. In this way, it has much more flavour and looks incredible. Although a little expensive, a little goes a long way. Pashmak is served on its own or as an accompaniment to fruits, cakes, ice creams, puddings and desserts, or just as a sweetmeat with coffee.

The Nougat is made with manna, (yes, manna from heaven!), a natural sweetner which imparts a distinct sweetness without being cloying.

Perbellini Artisan Panettone, Pandoro di Verona Perbellini, Fior d'Albicocca perbellini. This is a range of enriched seasonal sweet breads made in traditional methods and in small batches near Verona. Both flavour and packaging are ultimate examples of Italian elegant restraint.

Then there are Ottolenghi Christmas cakes, covered in marzipan, with fruit that has been macerating in rum and brandy since the summer.

There’s actually much more, but for that you’ll need to come to us... Happy Holidays!

Sydney re-visited

So much was cramped into the three days of the World Chef Showcase, part of The Sydney International Food Festival, that I am not sure what happened when anymore. And the jet-lag isn’t helping much either.

I can tell you that Sydney’s skies were more than welcoming on my second visit to this charismatic city in less than eight months.

My assistant (and much more than that), Ling, and I spent our first two days pigging out on food without stopping. Dinner at Marque was unique, with beetroot and foie gras macaroon being the absolute highlight. Even better was lunch with Brad, Ex-Ottolenghi Islington, at Bodega tapas bar where sashimi Kingfish on toast with cuttlefish ceviche was king. The brawn (jellied pig’s head) was a good contender to the throne.

Pastries were astounding, as usual, at Bourke Street Bakery and The Book Kitchen next door.

On Friday all the big name chefs arrived and we were panicking a bit. We had to do all our prep in various kitchens and then trolley it all through the long corridors and massive lifts of the Star City casino complex, which is, literally, the size of a medium city. But the team, headed by Andrew North, was as helpful as can be, considering a massive group of big-egoed chefs were monopolizing their kitchens and staff, and all (almost... wait for labneh) went smoothly.

On Saturday morning I could even have a quick peek at what others were doing, before getting on with our show, which was, so I’m told, a success. Phew... I demonstrated a baked red mullet, wrapped in Swiss chard, with chreime sauce, braised eggs with lamb, tahini and sumac, and quinoa salad with dried Iranian lime and labneh. A little drama of the yoghurt not draining quick enough to form a lebneh was averted by substituting with feta. Did it work? I did see some happy faces around.

The line-up of chefs over the next couple of days was completely inspiring, but more so were the dishes they came up with. There isn’t enough space here to describe a fraction of all the stupendous things. The images tell half of it (Thanks to Crave Sydney International Food Festival and photographer Belinda Rolland):

Very reluctantly and completely sleep deprived, Ling and I dragged our sorry little faces to breakfast on Harbour Bridge at 6am (!!) on Sunday morning. Despite the rain and the funny anoraks, it was well worth the agony. The site of this awesome construction lined with real grass and strewn with 6000 people all having their breakfast together was fantastic. Only in Australia!

After a quick Q&A session with Joanna Savill, the energetic and completely charming organizer of the festival (oh, and Melly brought me this mind-blowing watermelon and strawberry cake with roses and pistachios from Black Star Pastry), I rushed off to the Ivy complex, where Ling and I, along with a bunch of imaginative, mostly Lebanese and Turkish chefs, prepared (sort of, David O’Brien’s team at the Ivy was more than instrumental) a gala dinner for 200 guests. It was a sweet night, in many ways.

After all the madness of the weekend all we wanted to do is take it easy. And easy we did. Lunch at cafe Sopra at Fratelli Fresh in Waterloo, walk in the botanical garden, Bondi beach, the fish markets and that’s it.

Back home now. Sydney’s a sweet, quickly-blurring memory and so much to do...

Leiths classes, spring 2011 - ALL FULL!

ALL CLASSES ARE NOW FULL. PLEASE DON'T CALL

We are happy to announce our next set of classes at Leiths, starting January 2011, with the new booking system in place.

As advertised earlier, there will be a short window of opportunities to sign in to the classes, due to their great popularity. Leiths' booking line (020 87496400) will be open for 2 days only, on the 20th and 21st of October, 9am to 4pm. We advice you to be persistent and keep on trying even if the line is busy. Once connected, you'll be able to book a class for up to 2 people.

Good luck and looking forward to seeing you next year!

15 January, with Sami Tamimi
Purple sprouting broccoli with chilli, garlic and feta
Root mash with wine braised shallots
Lamb and feta kebabs
Kohlrabi and white cabbage slaw with lemon zest, tarragon, dill and sesame seeds
Plum, grappa and hazelnut trifle

12 February, with Yotam Ottolenghi
Bulgur and cauliflower tabouleh with red onion, pomegranate and sweet spices
Smoked aubergine salad with red onion, yellow pepper, tomato and cumin
Swiss chard cakes with Greek yoghurt
Purple sprouting broccoli with chilli, garlic and lemon
Busbusa: semolina, orange and coconut cake

19 March, with Sami Tamimi
Courgette fritters with Greek yoghurt and mint sauce
Char-grilled chicken, orange and herb salad
Roast beetroot and red onion salad
French beans with tarragon, sesame and garlic
Baked rhubarb with meringue and yoghurt cream

9 April, with Yotam Ottolenghi
Sweet potato patties with cumin and coriander
Pork belly and fresh fennel salad with sumac, lemon and mint
Saffron couscous with chervil
Caramelised fennel with goat’s curd and fennel seeds
Baked pears in white wine and cardamom

14 May, with Sami Tamimi
Baked artichokes and broad beans
Chicken and courgette burgers with spring onion and yoghurt-dill sauce
Saffron rice with barberries, pistachio and mixed herbs
Okra with tomato, preserved lemon and coriander
Limoncello and mascarpone trifle

11 June, with Yotam Ottolenghi
Roasted aubergine with preserved lemon and chilli yoghurt
Halibut in Chreime (North African sauce)
French bean salad with fennel, roast cherry tomato and basil oil
Bulgar and herb pilaf
Baked cherries with meringue and yoghurt cream

9 July, with Sami Tamimi
Sweet potato patties with cumin and coriander
Butterbean mash with lemon juice, garlic, spring onion and sumac
Yoghurt flatbread
Roasted aubergine with a sharp salsa of walnut, pomegranate and coriander
Caramelised fennel with goat’s curd and fennel seeds
Fresh strawberries with orange blossom syrup and cream

Monthly Chef Meeting

It was one of the most productive chef meetings we’ve had so far. Almost everybody was there, bar Adriano, Garry and Francis (we sort of excuse them), and the ideas were both original and delicious. It was short as well.

Myles’ beetroot mash with ginger puree and duka was immediately popular. Sami stunned us all with some amazingly looking and tasting fairs using Odyssey’s giant butterbeans: No. 1 with burnt aubergine, pomegranate and mint (so Ottolenghi); No. 2 with avocado and chilli (so Mexico); no. 1 won by a small margin. Becky’s puy lentils with Jerusalem artichoke and truffle oil were a clear hit, beating Yotam’s lentils with roasted peppers and manuka honey. 1-0.

Then there was Mark’s aubergine with cinnamon, chilli and maple, served with pecorino, which was a real surprise (who would have thought? Not about Mark, about the cinnamom) and a great hit. Ling’s take on Waldorf, but Ottolenghi-fied, was spot one: celeriac, green apple, quinoa, red onion and poppy seeds with pickled chilli and a sharp dressing. Raphael brought couscous and freekeh salad with dried tomato and grilled courgettes. Also a triumph.

Expect all these wonders on the coming menu, starting next week. Oh, and almost forgot, welcome back Scully!

Soho restaurant

It’s been way too long in the pipeline. Finding the right space wasn’t easy, particularly with our constantly adjusting demands. But at the end we managed to find a site for a new restaurant. And what a site it is!

The old home to the mythical Sugar Club (run by our friend, the chef Peter Gordon) with the ideal location on Warwick Street on the edge of Soho, around the corner from Regent Street and the beautiful Golden Square, we couldn’t have asked for more. The elegant proportions of the interior are as charming as can be.

But to all you great Ottolenghi fans, we must set the record straight and clarify right away that this is not another Ottolenghi. It won’t even be called Ottolenghi. It won’t be selling food or pastries to go or have the casual communal dining. This will be a straightforward restaurant and we will do all it takes to turn it into a great restaurant.

If you want to know more, follow our provisional blog documenting the setting up of our new venture. And please, wish us luck.

Kisir

This is one of the most delicious, yet simple, recipes in Plenty, with a picture by Jonathan Lovekin that didn't make it to print.

read more

Arvon Time

I didn’t really want it to end. But all sweet things must, eventually, come to an end and so I had to say a sad goodbye to my charming group of students at the Arvon foundation in Totleigh Barton, Devon, and to the centre’s inspiring managers Claire and Olly. Oh, and also to Mr Doggles, a dog who’s much more than just a dog.

I spent a week at Totleigh giving a course in creative writing, alongside Peter Gordon.

Both Peter and I, we later sheepishly admitted to each other, arrived at the centre with serious trepidations. We hadn’t a clue how to teach food writing, or, for that matter, any other form of creative writing. I guess we both secretly trusted the other to get out of this one safely.

As a matter of fact, it wasn’t half as trying as we had imagined. Claire and Olly put us at ease in seconds, with their calm and naturally reassuring demeanours. The beauty of the place and its long and solid literary history also managed to calm our nerves. And Mr. Doggles, of course, with his canine lovability and persistent barking fevers.

But it was only after the first encounter with our students - all so obviously different from each other and having a vast variety of culinary and literary agendas, yet with tons of humour and big personalities – that we realised that all is safe.

The rest was pure fun: from the chicken auction in Hatherleigh to the eventful readings in the barn, from the one-on-one tutorials, where some brutal honesty was often called for, to writing restaurant reviews, from group cooking in the afternoons, where the standard continuously deteriorated, to fumed roars of laughter around the massive dinner table dissecting the organ of one infamous TV chef.

I guess that in the end it worked out so well because our week was about so much more than just creative writing. It was about self expression, changing direction and exposure; it was about courage to embellish, uncovering a voice and leaving safe grounds; and it was about simple human (and dog) interaction.

Leiths cooking classes - New booking system

Due to the phenomenal response to the Saturday classes we run together with Leiths School for Food and Wine, we had to come up with a new booking system with greater clarity and, hopefully, eliminating the frustration of the long waiting list.

Basically, a new list of courses will be advertised every six months. After several weeks, Leiths will open their phones for bookings over two clearly designated days. Those who don’t manage to secure a place in those two days will, unfortunately, have to wait for the next time. To start with, Leiths will restrict booking to one course per person calling.

This may seem a bit harsh but we believe this is the most effective and fairest way to ease the disappointment created by the existing system, where courses are booked out as soon as they are advertised and before many can’t even get a chance to check whether they are available or not.

Here is the system in detail:
• Leiths’ website and the Ottolenghi site will make it clear when the next menus and dates are going to be displayed.
• The new menus will be displayed for several weeks before booking starts.
• The website will give two dedicated booking dates for the next series of classes.
• You will need to make bookings by telephone to Leiths School of Food and Wine on 02087496400 between 9.00am and 4.00pm on those dates.
• You may book for yourself and one friend if you wish.
• When the places are all full, Leiths will then take a waiting list of 15 people.
• Gift vouchers for Ottolenghi courses will only be available during the 2 days of bookings.

The next Ottolenghi menus and dates will be on the Leiths website and Ottolenghi website from 20th of September 2010.

You will be able to book onto these courses if you call Leiths on 02087496400 on the 20th and 21st of October, 9am – 4pm, or until places run out.

Thank you so much for supporting Ottolenghi classes at Leiths and we are sorry such a formal arrangement has been necessary, but we hope you understand and find it easier to use.

Muffin Galore

After almost 8 years of mango and passion, blueberry crumble and carrot and apple - we are about to change our muffins. It may not sound like anything to some but for us, in our little geeky cake world, this is as momentous as any of the big revolutions in human history.

But please bear with us while we experiment a little longer and come up with suitable substitutes for those old giants... and it is probably evident from the picture that we are not taking this lightly.

Gloucestershire and Hay Festival

Apart from long walks (some sunny, some rainy), a spectacular Sunday Roast at The Potting Shed Pub in Wiltshire and lazy evenings by the fire in a charming Landmark Trust house near Tetbury, we managed to fit in a masterclass and sign many, many books.

...and to all of you (and others) who were brave enough to come and see us cooking scallops at 9am on a Bank Holiday weekend, here are the recipes (all serving 4):

Tiger prawns, scallops and clams with tomato and feta

250ml white wine
1kg clams
3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
3 tbsp olive oil, plus extra to finish
600g tinned Italian plum tomatoes, chopped
1 tsp caster sugar
2 tbsp chopped fresh oregano
1 lemon
200g tiger prawns, peeled and de-vained
200g large scallops, cleaned
120g feta, broken into chunks
3 spring onions, thinly sliced
Salt and black pepper

Place the wine in a medium saucepan and reduce to 1 quarter. Add the clams, cover immediately with a lid, and cook for about 2 minutes, shaking occasionally, until the clams open. Transfer to a fine sieve to drain, keeping the cooking juices. Remove the clams out of their shells, keeping just a few in the shells to finish the dish.
Set the oven to 220ºC.
Cook the garlic in the oil for about a minute, until golden. Carefully add the tomatoes, clam liquids, sugar, oregano and some salt and pepper. Shave off 3 lemon skin strips, add them and simmer gently until the sauce thickens well, about 20-25 minutes. Taste and add salt and pepper accordingly.
Add the prawns and scallops, stir gently and cook for just a minute or two. Fold in the shelled clams and transfer everything to an ovenproof dish. Sink feta pieces inside the sauce and sprinkle with spring onion. Top with some clams in their shells and place in the oven for 3-5 minutes, until the top colours a little and prawns and scallops are just cooked.
Remove the dish from the oven, squeeze a little lemon juice on top and finish with a drizzle of olive oil.

Yoghurt flatbread

140g wholemeal flour
1½ tsp baking powder
½ tsp salt
140g Greek yoghurt
3 tbsp chopped fresh coriander
4 tbsp clarified butter (or a mixture of melted butter and vegetable oil)

Combine all the ingredients, apart from the butter, in a bowl and use your hands to mix them together to a dry dough; add more flour if needed. Knead the dough for a minute or so, until it is smooth and uniform. Wrap it in cling film and chill for at least an hour.
When ready to make the flatbreads, divide your dough into six pieces. Roll into balls, then flatten them with a rolling pin into round discs about 2mm thick. Heat some clarified butter in a non-stick pan and fry the flatbreads, one at a time, on a medium heat for about 2 minutes on each side, or until golden brown. Add more butter as you need it and keep the flatbreads warm as they are cooked.

Burnt aubergine with tahini and pomegranate

2 large aubergines
140g tahini paste
120ml water
1½ tbsp pomegranate molasses
2 tbsp lemon juice
2 garlic cloves, crushed
30g chopped parsley
6 mini cucumbers (360g in total)
180g cherry tomatoes
Seeds from 1 large pomegranate (180g)
Olive oil to finish
Salt and black pepper

To cook the aubergines on a gas hob, which is the most effective way, start by lining the area around the hob heads with foil to protect them. Put the aubergines directly on two moderate flames and roast for 12–15 minutes, turning frequently with metal tongs, until the flesh is soft and smoky and the skin is burnt all over. Keep an eye on them the whole time so they don’t catch fire. For an electric cooker, pierce the aubergines with a sharp knife in a few places. Put them on a foil-lined tray and place directly under a hot grill for 1 hour, turning them a few times. The aubergines need to deflate completely and their skin should burn and break.
When cool enough to handle scoop out the flesh into a colander, avoiding the blackened skin. Leave to drain for at least 30 minutes.
Chop the aubergine flesh roughly and transfer to a medium mixing bowl. Add the tahini, water, pomegranate molasses, lemon juice, garlic, parsley and some salt and pepper; mix well with a whisk. Taste and adjust the seasoning, adding more garlic, lemon juice or molasses if needed. You want the salad to have a robust sour/slightly sweet flavour.
Cut the cucumbers lengthways in half and then each half lengthways in two. Cut each quarter into 1cm long pieces. Halve the tomatoes. Stir them and the cucumber into the aubergine mix.
To serve, spread over a shallow dish, scatter the pomegranate seeds on top and drizzle with oil.

Saffron rice with barberries, pistachio and mixed herbs

35g unsalted butter
350g basmati rice
550ml boiling water
1 tsp salt
¼ tsp ground white pepper
1 tsp saffron threads
40g dry barberries
2 tsp caster sugar
30g chopped dill
20g chopped chervil
10g chopped tarragon
60g slivered pistachios, lightly toasted

Melt the butter in a medium saucepan and stir in the rice, making sure the grains are well coated in butter. Add the boiling water, salt and white pepper, mix well, cover with a tight lid and leave to cook on minimum heat for 15 minutes.
Meanwhile, soak the saffron in 3 tablespoons of boiling water and set aside. Throw the barberries and sugar into a small saucepan of boiling water, remove from the heat and leave on the side.
Next, remove the rice pan from the heat and pour the saffron water over the surface of the rice. Cover the pan immediately with a tea towel and place the lid tightly over the towel. Leave for 5 minutes.
Finally, transfer the rice into a mixing bowl, fluff it up with a fork and let it cool down a bit. Drain the barberries and stir them into the rice along with the herbs and most of the pistachios, reserving some to scatter on top when serving. The rice is delicious warm or at room temperature.

Yotam and Sami at Hay Festival

It is not too late to come and watch Yotam and Sami at the Hay Festival this bank holiday weekend. Tickets are available online. On the program: Tiger prawns, scallops and clams with tomato and feta, Saffron rice with barberries, pistachio and mixed herbs and more! Entertainment guaranteed.

Day at Perch Hill

The most beautiful place for a cookery demonstration? I think I was there on Wednesday.

Sarah Ravens garden is truly outstanding and a perfect venue for a bunch of colourful old Ottolenghi recipes, plus a some new ones from Plenty: Gruyere and rosemary cake, Watercress and chickpea soup, Beetroot with preserved lemon relish and more.

I am there again on June 8th! Call to see if they have any places left: 0845 092 0283. I don't think they do, though. Sorry.